Hey! It’s April! This is not a joke!
January felt like forever but February and March disappeared into wherever it is that the days go. They’re anticipated, they’re here, and then they’re not. Sometimes I wonder if I actually experienced certain days — they slip away so easily. Other days I know I will hold onto for a long time.
In mid-March, I hopped on a plane and went to Paris by myself. I’ll be holding onto those days for a very long time.
FAUST-TO-TABLE
Maybe I’ll write a deeper play-by-play of the meals, the vibes, the wines in May. But today I want to write about two Paris restaurants in particular, through the lens of this broader cultural moment we find ourselves in.
Lately, amid the disappearings of students, the deportations of immigrants, the general feelings of apprehension, anxiety and distrust, I’ve been thinking about what it means that (some) Americans are no longer proud to be part of the “melting pot.”
Twenty years ago (which is an absolutely unhinged thing to write) I sang this song — and a whole slew of others in the SRL canon — with a beautifully diverse group while performing at some beautifully diverse schools in the beautifully diverse Akron public school district. Problematic screengrab aside, as the comments on this video note, we need this message more than ever. “How great to be American, and something else as well.”
I’m not going to get overtly political — currently trying to renew my passport, yikes — but this is deeply personal: my refugee parents were welcomed here by Reagan, of all people. Whether it is learned or innate, skepticism of others can be a survival tactic. But that same skepticism can completely fray the fabric of society.
It’s not a new phenomenon, of course, nor is it unique to the States. France has an ugly colonial history, and a well-documented racist present. And yet, in Paris at least (much like New York City, another point where the rural/urban divide comes into play), everyone is flocking to restaurants that sample the flavors and ingredients of other countries.
Hypocritical? Maybe! I think so! Anthony Bourdain wrote about it back in 2014:
“Americans love Mexican food. We consume nachos, tacos, burritos, tortas, enchiladas, tamales and anything resembling Mexican in enormous quantities. We love Mexican beverages, happily knocking back huge amounts of tequila, mezcal, and Mexican beer every year…
So, why don’t we love Mexico?”
Apologies, I’m working myself into a frenzy here. Back to France we go (but I do encourage you to read Bourdain’s whole essay if you have the brain space).
Actually, sorry, one more thing. Aside from Google’s AI completely glossing over the horrifying effects of colonization, it is darkly spot on here:
Silver linings? 🫣 But also, 100% the resilience of immigrant communities — feeding each other (and everyone else) despite facing hurdle upon uphill battle upon hurdle that many of us have never known (and for some reason, that some of us cannot even empathize with!?!?!!).
Sorry, frenzy again. Moving on.
As with the loneliness epidemic I wrote about last month (and maybe these things are related, idk just spitballin), we can and should use food as a tool to convince the more, er, fearful among us that actually, the blending of cultures, of flavors, is a really 👏 good 👏 thing. Helloooooo fusion restaurants! Melting pot, yes please! Inspiration and innovation abounds!
So much magic can happen when you have an open mind.
With that, let me lighten things up here a little and share some impressions from those two Parisian restaurants I mentioned five hundred words ago. Restaurants that happen to fuse several cultures beautifully.
I found Double mostly by accident, in that I knew I wanted to spend my Saturday in Montmartre and wouldn’t it be fun to treat myself to a tasting menu after exploring all day? Enter Double, a “micro-restaurant” that blends chef Tsuyoshi Yamakawa’s Japanese heritage with his Italian culinary training. You don’t often see those two cuisines together, and I was intrigued. I signed up immediately.
It rocked. I sat smack dab in the middle of the chef’s counter, chatting with my twelve new friends between seven or so courses. Highlights:
Le Servan has been around since 2014, and it’s been on my radar for about half that time — mainly because I am never not dreaming about eating in Paris. On my last full day, I ventured over to the Oberkampf neighborhood for a luxurious lunch at the bar.
Once again, it rocked. The restaurant is run by two sisters — half French, half Filipina — and the food leverages their mixed heritage in a subtle and delightful attitude. Highlights:
The opposite of fusion is fission. When it comes to nuclear power (lol) both processes create energy, it’s true; but while we’ve had more success with fission so far — due to limitations on current technologies — it turns out fusion is more stable, and safer. That’s a science lesson and a metaphor.
I’m still hopeful for that more stable and safe world, one born out of a mindset of abundance. Thanks for coming to my TED talk.
Here’s what I’m craving and coveting lately…
…and here’s a link to donate to the ACLU if you are so inclined. Or, find a local direct support organization if that’s more your speed; South Brooklyn Sanctuary has been doing some amazing work and The Brave House has my heart.
You have to let us know when you come to Paris! It would be nice to share a plate with you. I love your writing. Excellent mix of social justice and cuisine. Thank you!